A common problem when removing the struts from the subframe is the sleeve sticks on the post. In CntrlSwitch's video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWh-2BinAOs he had that problem when deleting the rear wheel steering. Also, you will notice when people are selling OEM struts usually a bushing will be missing from one of the Struts.

I was working on the a 92 Stealth TT, so all dimensions may or may not work with other models and generations.

Best option when dropping the rear subframe is to disconnect the struts at the top of the strut tower and avoid the problem.

Tools Needed[edit]

Large Clamp
Bench top Grinder
Large Socket approx. 32mm
Hole Saw

Parts Needed[edit]

Old Sleeve

These bushings are not offered by the dealer, and I could not find one the right size offered in the aftermarket. I did find a part that could be modified to work, although it was not made for this purpose.

Brand:Energy Suspension
Manufacturer's Part Number:9-8145G
Part Type:Shock Bushings
Product Line:Energy Suspension Shock Bushings
Summit Racing Part Number:ENS-9-8145G
Shock Bushing Type:Bayonet tower end
Bushing Material:Polyurethane
Bushing Color:Black
Shock Bushing Outside Diameter (in):1.875 in.
Shock Bushing Inside Diameter (in):0.563 in.
Bushing Length (in):0.813 in.

Neither the inner diameter or the outer diameter is the correct size.

TT with ECS .. possibly others[edit]

Reduce the outer diameter. I put the bushing on my grinder and then used a file to reduce the outer diameter to 1.71 inches so the bushing could be pressed into the strut eye.
- 250px] Holding another bushing to right for reference
Press the busing in the Strut eye. I pressed the bushing into the strut eye using an old brake pad and a large Clamp, much like you would press in a brake caliper cylinder.
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Open up the inneer diameter of the bushing.I took a 0.931 inch hole saw and cut out the inner diameter of the bushing. Hardest part here was centering the hole saw on the bushing since there was already a 0.563 i.d on the bushing. In retrospect, I should have inserted an old rubber hose or something to the center the hole saw to center it up better. This hole was pretty small compared to the outer diameter of the sleeve, so I opened up the edge with a step drill. The step drill cut in about 1/8 of and inch.*:
Press in the steel sleeve. The old sleeve could then be inserted into the 1/8 groove and then pressed the rest of the way. I pressed the sleeve in so that about equal parts stuck out from each side of the strut eye. Used a large socket to allow the sleeve to be pressed past the outer edge It seems pretty firm, but I have not road tested it as my car is not currently running.
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