Difference between revisions of "Drivetrain: Replace Carrier Bearing"
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#'''Unbolt the two nuts at the rear carrier bearing'''. They are lock nuts so they will be tight the whole length of the stud. There may be some spacers so be sure to keep track of which stud they are on. | #'''Unbolt the two nuts at the rear carrier bearing'''. They are lock nuts so they will be tight the whole length of the stud. There may be some spacers so be sure to keep track of which stud they are on. | ||
#:[[File:carrier_bearing-rear.jpg|thumb|none|250px|Rear carrier bearing]] | #:[[File:carrier_bearing-rear.jpg|thumb|none|250px|Rear carrier bearing]] | ||
| − | #'''Unbolt the exhaust hanger then the remaining two nuts holding on the front carrier bearing'''. | + | #'''Unbolt the exhaust hanger and then the remaining two nuts holding on the front carrier bearing'''. |
#:[[File:carrier_bearing-front.jpg|thumb|none|250px|Front carrier bearing]] | #:[[File:carrier_bearing-front.jpg|thumb|none|250px|Front carrier bearing]] | ||
#'''Drop the shaft'''. Once you have everything unbolted you can drop the shaft and pull it out of the transfercase. Leave an oil pan underneath the transfercase as some gear oil will come out. Again be sure to keep the shaft straight, a second hand will help here. Also be sure not to scratch the end that goes into the transfercase and is a good idea to wrap and tape it. | #'''Drop the shaft'''. Once you have everything unbolted you can drop the shaft and pull it out of the transfercase. Leave an oil pan underneath the transfercase as some gear oil will come out. Again be sure to keep the shaft straight, a second hand will help here. Also be sure not to scratch the end that goes into the transfercase and is a good idea to wrap and tape it. | ||
Latest revision as of 05:04, September 4, 2012
Replacing the carrier bearings is a lengthy repair. If your car has some age on it chances are they are worn and can create knocking problems or excess vibration.
Contents
Tools Needed[edit]
- Various Hand Tools
- Screwdrivers
- Impact Wrench (not necessary but it makes the job many times easier)
- Jacks
- Jack Stands (A MUST! when you are working under the car)
- Gear Puller (three jaw is best)
Parts Needed[edit]
| Qty | Part Number | Part Name | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2x | MB505495 | Carrier Bearings | |
| 4x | MB505283 | Carrier Bearing Insulator | If yours are worn |
| 4x | MB505284 | Carrier Bearing Insulator | |
| 1x | MB837572 | Lobro Joint Boot Kit | If you need to replace your boot |
| .35qt | n/a | Transfer Case GL-4 Rated Gear Oil | Redline Shockproof Heavy recommended |
Preparation[edit]
- Jack up the car and place on jack stands
- Remove the fill plug from the transfer case
- Remove the drain plug and drain the fluid
Replacing the Carrier Bearings in a Mitsubishi 3000GT/GTO VR4 or Dodge Stealth RT/TT[edit]
Unbold the Driveshaft[edit]
- Mark where the driveshaft meets up to the rear differential. This is so that the orientation is maintained upon installation and remove the four bolts. Leave one in to hold it as you remove the rest of the shaft.
- Support the driveshaft with a few jacks or some blocks. You don't want it to drop or bend at the lobro joint too much.
- Unbolt the two nuts at the rear carrier bearing. They are lock nuts so they will be tight the whole length of the stud. There may be some spacers so be sure to keep track of which stud they are on.
- Unbolt the exhaust hanger and then the remaining two nuts holding on the front carrier bearing.
- Drop the shaft. Once you have everything unbolted you can drop the shaft and pull it out of the transfercase. Leave an oil pan underneath the transfercase as some gear oil will come out. Again be sure to keep the shaft straight, a second hand will help here. Also be sure not to scratch the end that goes into the transfercase and is a good idea to wrap and tape it.
Remove the Front and Rear Carrier Bearings[edit]
Here you see the shaft out of the car. The lobro joint is that between the two bearings.
- Make a mating mark between the front shaft and the rear two. This is so they may be lined up upon assembly.
- Unbolt the four bolts.
- Make a mark on the center shaft and the companion flange.
- Unbolt the nut inside the on front companion joint. It is on there with 137ft lbs, impact wrench works nicely here, otherwise you will have to put the shaft in a vise. Be sure to remove the washer underneath.
- Use a puller to pull off the companion flange.
-
- Pry off the outside of the carrier bearing. It might take some force (pictured is the rear bearing but the process is the same)
-
- Use a gear puller to remove the rest of the bearing.
-
- Mark the rear shaft, center shaft, companion flange, and lobro joint. This is to ensure alignment.
- Unbolt the lobro joint from the companion flange. There will be a lot of grease inside, I would recommend wearing gloves at this point.
- Unbolt the nut from the rear companion flange. Be sure to remove the washer from inside as well.
-
- Pull the rear companion flange off.
- Pry off the outside of the carrier bearing. It might take some force.
- Pull the rest of the bearing off.
Install the New Carrier Bearings[edit]
At this point you may start installation of the bearings. If you need to replace your lobro boot continue on below.
There are two sides to the carrier bearing, one has a dust sheild (shown below) and should always face the companion flange.
Install the bearing, and the companion flange making sure to align all marks previously made. Use the companion flange to tighten and press the bearing back on. Torque to 137 ft lbs.
Reassemble Driveshaft[edit]
At this point you can reinstall making sure to align all marks made. Don't forget to fill the transfercase.
This article originated from a page on Antoni's 3000GT/Stealth Website by Toni.
