Difference between revisions of "Door: Repair Window Regulator"

From 3000GT/Stealth Wiki
Jump to navigation Jump to search
(Created page with "Window Regulator Repair (Just getting this one started as I did not take pictures of the process, hopefully someone else will add to this) I know this exists in other place o...")
 
Line 1: Line 1:
 
Window Regulator Repair (Just getting this one started as I did not take pictures of the process, hopefully someone else will add to this)  I know this exists in other place on the web currently.
 
Window Regulator Repair (Just getting this one started as I did not take pictures of the process, hopefully someone else will add to this)  I know this exists in other place on the web currently.
  
1.  Lower your window down about 1/2 way.
+
#Lower your window down about 1/2 way.
2.  Remove the door panel. Video's and wiki's already exist for this.
+
#Remove the door panel. Video's and wiki's already exist for this.
3.  Prop the window with a board under the window slightly toward the back.
+
#Prop the window with a board under the window slightly toward the back.
4.  Remove the 2 long (10mm) bolts that attach the regulator to the window. If you do not see them you need to change the height of the window.  They are located about 2 inches up from the bottom of the window.
+
#Remove the 2 long (10mm) bolts that attach the regulator to the window. If you do not see them you need to change the height of the window.  They are located about 2 inches up from the bottom of the window.
4.  Remove the screws that hold the 4 (10mm) bolts that hold the regulator at he top and bottom.
+
#Remove the screws that hold the 4 (10mm) bolts that hold the regulator at he top and bottom.
5.  Remove the 3 screws that hold the motor to the door.
+
#Remove the 3 screws that hold the motor to the door.
6.  Unplug the motor.
+
#Unplug the motor.
7.  Carefully rotate the regulator until it can be removed. Might help to have a helper lift the window up off of the regulator.
+
#Carefully rotate the regulator until it can be removed. Might help to have a helper lift the window up off of the regulator.
8.  Observe the end pulley orientation.  The top pulley should be parallel to the motion of the regulator slide.  Mine was bent 90 degrees.  
+
#Observe the end pulley orientation.  The top pulley should be parallel to the motion of the regulator slide.  Mine was bent 90 degrees.  
9.  Carefully work the teflon pulley and teflon assembly so that it is parallel to the motion of the regulator slide.  This can be difficult due to the tension on the cables.  One cable should go around the pulley and the other should go along the outside curved guide.
+
#Carefully work the Teflon pulley and Teflon assembly so that it is parallel to the motion of the regulator slide.  This can be difficult due to the tension on the cables.  One cable should go around the pulley and the other should go along the outside curved guide.
10.  Once it is in position clamp it with a set of vise-grips or other clamp.
+
#Once it is in position clamp it with a set of vise-grips or other clamp.
11.  Next you need to fabricate a backing plate to hold the teflon bracket and pulley straight while under load.  I used an old drawer slide.  I bought 2 #10 bolts and a couple locking nuts from the hardware store.  I bolted through the indentation locations on metal part of the regulator.  Also, I bought 1/4" long aluminum spacers.  Have seen other people do this differently, but this worked for me.
+
#Next you need to fabricate a backing plate to hold the Teflon bracket and pulley straight while under load.  I used an old drawer slide.  I bought 2 #10 bolts and a couple locking nuts from the hardware store.  I bolted through the indentation locations on metal part of the regulator.  Also, I bought 1/4" long aluminum spacers.  Have seen other people do this differently, but this worked for me.  The main goal is to keep the upper teflon bracket from flopping over and binding the cables up.

Revision as of 21:54, September 27, 2014

Window Regulator Repair (Just getting this one started as I did not take pictures of the process, hopefully someone else will add to this) I know this exists in other place on the web currently.

  1. Lower your window down about 1/2 way.
  2. Remove the door panel. Video's and wiki's already exist for this.
  3. Prop the window with a board under the window slightly toward the back.
  4. Remove the 2 long (10mm) bolts that attach the regulator to the window. If you do not see them you need to change the height of the window. They are located about 2 inches up from the bottom of the window.
  5. Remove the screws that hold the 4 (10mm) bolts that hold the regulator at he top and bottom.
  6. Remove the 3 screws that hold the motor to the door.
  7. Unplug the motor.
  8. Carefully rotate the regulator until it can be removed. Might help to have a helper lift the window up off of the regulator.
  9. Observe the end pulley orientation. The top pulley should be parallel to the motion of the regulator slide. Mine was bent 90 degrees.
  10. Carefully work the Teflon pulley and Teflon assembly so that it is parallel to the motion of the regulator slide. This can be difficult due to the tension on the cables. One cable should go around the pulley and the other should go along the outside curved guide.
  11. Once it is in position clamp it with a set of vise-grips or other clamp.
  12. Next you need to fabricate a backing plate to hold the Teflon bracket and pulley straight while under load. I used an old drawer slide. I bought 2 #10 bolts and a couple locking nuts from the hardware store. I bolted through the indentation locations on metal part of the regulator. Also, I bought 1/4" long aluminum spacers. Have seen other people do this differently, but this worked for me. The main goal is to keep the upper teflon bracket from flopping over and binding the cables up.